LIFE Project Cover Photo

Sustainable, AOX-free Superwash Finishing of Wool Tops for the Yarn Production

Reference: LIFE05 ENV/D/000195 | Acronym: SuperWool

PROJECT DESCRIPTION

BACKGROUND

Approximately 75% of machine-washable wool is treated by the so-called Chlorine-Hercosett shrinkproofing process. This method, which guarantees the felt-free superwash standard, works on the basis of chlorination and subsequent coating of the fibre material with a polyaminoamide. The process, which uses large amounts of water as well as dangerous substances, leads to significant pollution of wastewater with organic halogen compounds (AOX). For approximately 1 200 t/a of “Superwash” quality wool produced per year, this process consumes the following quantities of environmentally hazardous substances:

  • 150 t sodium hypochlorite;
  • 220 t resin; and
  • 165 t other auxiliaries (sulphuric acid, wetting agent, defoamer, etc.)

  • OBJECTIVES

    The LIFE SUPERWOOL project aimed to replace the current Chlorine-Hercosett process with the sustainable pre-treatment of wool using plasma. This new method, which has been successfully tested at research and development scale, still needs to be improved. In particular, the electrode systems must be improved to ensure the reproducible treatment of wool fibres. Additionally, a suitable resin has to be selected to ensure that the yarn has the requisite anti-felt property.


    RESULTS

    The SUPERWOOL project was completed and all planned actions fulfilled. This included the construction of a demonstration plant (opened spring 2008) with the innovative AOX-free plasma technology. Trials showed that the new process gives acceptable results for fine wool (socks, underwear etc). However there were still problems with coarse wool, which showed mingling after the washing process. Further tests with coarse wool will go on after the project end.

    The treatment of wool tops with low-temperature plasma and alternative resin systems has turned out to be considerably better for the environment compared to the conventional Chlorine-Hercosett process; it is also economically very promising. This new approach not only leads to an AOX- and wastewater-free process, but can also drastically reduce the felting tendency of the material.

    Substituting plasma treatment for the Chlorine-Hercosett process also gives advantages regarding the physical health of the operators. Since no hazardous chemicals - e.g. chlorine, sulphuric acid or volatile organic compounds - are needed, air contamination is significantly reduced and the risk of industrial accidents is lowered. The contamination of water bodies will also be reduced in developing countries that do not possess appropriate water treatment plants. Social benefits are strongly aligned with the outlined economical advantages, since the new technology could preserve employment in the textile industry in highly industrialised countries.

    The environment-friendly plasma process has the potential to define a new Best Available Technique (BAT) and could therefore replace the Chlorine-Hercosett process worldwide. This would affect some 10 installed Hercosett plants in the EU (Germany, UK, Italy, France and the Czech Republic) as well as about the same number of plants in Asia. The established plasma technology has the potential to be extended to other areas of textile finishing such as needle felt production, where even more positive effects on the environment can be expected. Further textile applications for the plasma process might be the cleaning of cotton and improvement of the fibre-matrix adhesion in compound materials. The large-scale process established by this project may also be used in related fields such as treatment of synthetic surfaces (e. g. for medical technology) in order to obtain specific effects.

    Whilst it is possible that the plasma process is not suitable for every wool product, the market share for the segment of fine wool products, such as socks, is the largest and gives sufficient scope to operate the plant at full capacity. Beneficiary Richter F&A plans to promote the SuperWool technology in Germany, Denmark, Italy,UK, Poland and the Czech Republic. Articles will be published in several journals and the technology will be presented at national and international fairs.

    Further information on the project can be found in the project's layman report (see "Read more" section).

    ADMINISTRATIVE DATA


    Reference: LIFE05 ENV/D/000195
    Acronym: SuperWool
    Start Date: 01/09/2005
    End Date: 31/01/2009
    Total Budget: 2,384,342 €
    EU Contribution: 704,053 €
    Project Location: Stadtallendorf

    CONTACT DETAILS


    Coordinating Beneficiary: Richter
    Legal Status: PRI
    Address: Rheinstrasse 19, D-35260, Stadallendorf, Deutschland
    Contact Person:
    Email:
    Tel:
    Website: www.superwool.de


    LIFE Project Map

    ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES ADDRESSED

    THEMES

    • Cleaner technologies
    • Textiles - Clothing

    KEYWORDS

    • emission reduction
    • coating
    • textile industry
    • alternative technology

    TARGET EU LEGISLATION

    • Directive 80/68 - Protection of groundwater against pollution caused by certain dangerous substances (17.12.1979)
    • Directive 76/464 - Pollution caused by certain dangerous substances discharged into the aquatic environment of the Community (04.05.1976)
    • COM(2001)68 - "Final Green Paper on Integrated Product Policy (IPP)” (07.02.2001)
    • Directive 2000/60 - Framework for Community action in the field of water policy (23.10.2000)

    BENEFICIARIES

    Name Type
    Richter Coordinator
    None Participant

    READ MORE